Álora area guide: Andalucía at its most authentic
There's a certain atmosphere that crops up here and there in Southern Spain that is hard to define. We'll call it 'Sunday afternoon syndrome'. A kind of slow-paced, shut-off sensation, where everybody seems to be waiting for something more exciting to happen, such as Monday morning. This sensation can afflict some of Spain's more rural areas thanks to their very makeup, sleepy, remote and lightly populated.
To the uninitiated, Álora is a place of perennial 'Sunday afternoon syndrome'. It can be enjoyable, all of that 'shops are shut let's relax and take it easy' way of living, but after a while it can get, dare we say, slightly boring, and no amount of stunning mountain backdrops, cute and quaint streets or wealth of history can alleviate it. Álora has all this, and more. Or is it less? Does this sleepy village 40km north of Málaga have enough to tempt the expat property buyer so far inland?
Well that really depends. Álora is undoubtedly pretty; it's situated in the heart of some extremely hilly terrain; the bundle of white-washed houses, churches and bodegas a dazzling smudge on an otherwise pristine natural horizon. But rather than detract from the beauty, Álora augments it. The village is steeped in history (dating back to Phoenician times) and has retained its distinctive character despite the rapid transformation this corner of Spain has been through in recent decades.
As a result, Álora is not the kind of village you can just stick a pin in a map and set off for; you really have to be prepared to do some homework to make the move worthwhile. You will need to learn to speak at least some Spanish. You will need to adapt to a slower pace of life. You will need to learn to not only accept but embrace Spanish customs. You will need to fuse your identity with that of the locals. This is no place for expat enclaves - this is real, true, authentic Andalucía. If you're prepared for all that entails, then Ãlora might just be the very place for you.
For most of the summer, the climate in Álora is intense. As soon as May hits, the village folk are treated to endless blue skies and sharply rising temperatures that easily top 40ºC by July. The coast is an hour's drive away, but Álora has an ace up its sleeve: the beautiful lakes at El Chorro are just 12km away and well worth a drive. Here you can enjoy nigh-on unspoilt gorges, gently shelving shores and water so clear you could bottle it. Spend hours swimming, canoeing and picnicking in this wonderful semi-wilderness and you'll be tanned, toned and fulfilled in no time.
Back in the village, your days can be filled by taking a testing walk up to the 5th century castle, which commands breathtaking views across the entire Guadalhorce Valley. There you can learn about the village's history as a mountain-top garrison, before descending back into the pretty citrus-lined streets to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. There is a Monday market which sees the entire village spill out into the open, and plenty of festivals throughout the year. Additionally, Málaga airport is just a 40-minute drive away.
Evenings in Álora are all about enjoying the delectable local cuisine that is a pre-eminent staple in pretty much every restaurant in the village. All the usual tapas are available as always, but the true way to taste life in Álora is to rest as much as you can before 9pm, freshen up and head for the charming squares that house the many dining establishments, and then take your pick. All will serve up beautifully fresh and unbelievably affordable local dishes, which include the garlic-infused 'Sopa de Porotos' and the sublime 'revuelto' of scrambled eggs, diced local vegetables and fresh spring onions.
As ever with Spain, all food simply must be washed down with a few drops of the local wine, which is grown and produced in the valleys all around you. As the night wears on 'as it invariably does in Andalucía' there are a couple of decent late-night bars and clubs that will keep you dancing until the early (and by that we mean 7am!) hours.