Benahavís area guide: sleepy and picture-perfect
The most beautiful town in Andalucía? It's some boast, but Benahavís might just well be. Tucked a few kilometres inland between Estepona and San Pedro de Alcántara, this quaint and picturesque pueblo is considered the gastronomic capital of the Costa del Sol; home to some of the finest restaurants found anywhere in southern Spain.
Anybody who lives nearby will shoot envious looks toward a Benahavís resident, for what the town may lack in vibrancy and convenience, it more than makes up for with its peace and quiet, deep well of charm and breathtaking beauty. With a gourmet restaurant on pretty much every corner, pristine streets that wind their way steeply through the stunning heart of town and an emerald encasing of densely-wooded mountains, Benahavís is as sleepy as can be, with every view a potential postcard, and every resident a lucky, lucky so-and-so.
Believe the hype. Make a checklist of everything you could ever wish for in your dream Spanish life. Fantastic weather? Check – that's a given; Benahavís is at the heart of the Costa del Sol and receives more than 300 days of sunshine per year. A classic slice of Spain that's accessible and welcoming? Check – Benahavís is just 7km from Puerto Banús, less than an hour's drive from Málaga airport. A destination that is both beautiful and peaceful? Check – the approach road to Benahavís sees you leave the coastal highway behind and weave past rolling plains that turn steadily into rocky cliff faces and then a plunging ravine. The road winds between sheer cliff face and clear drop down to the crisp and cool waters of the Guadalmina River, before the whitewashed, sugar-cube beauty of Benahavís appears before you, tucked into the valley and magnificently presented in the bright Mediterranean sunlight.
The surroundings are evidently inspirational, for Benahavís is home to a thriving community of artisans, primarily in the form of painters, potters and chefs. In addition to the art galleries and craft shops, Benahavís boasts a brilliant portfolio of restaurants – from authentic pizzerias to classy haute cuisine establishments, robust grillhouses and the ubiquitous tapas tavernas. Dining out in Benahavís is a gastronomic pleasure, matched only by the visceral thrill of enjoying an al fresco meal under a star-studded sky in one of Europe's most alluring of natural patios.
There are three distinct areas of Benahavís, each featuring its own charm and character. The newer outskirts contain a number of modern apartment complexes, sports facilities, hotels and parkland; this is where an increasing number of expats are moving into and making the most of the swift access to the coast. In the heart of town is the tourist magnet area where most of the bars, restaurants, jewellers and galleries are to be found. The third area of the town is the old residential area, where the local Spaniards live among the undulating terrain and twisting streets; an area characterised by beautifully kept villas and townhouses, charming gardens and gorgeous views.
When there's so much to see, so much can be missed. Driving – such a joy along the twisting mountain roads that typify 95% of inland Costa del Sol – should be shunned when in and around Benahavís. While going by foot through the steep, tight streets of the centre of town is just good common sense, there's a more spectacular reason to forego the wheels as you leave Benahavís and head towards the coast.
A mere 200 metres along the main road is an opening. Barely marked and steeply descending, one of the village’s hidden treasures lies some 30 metres below. Huge boulders, remnants from some ancient landslide or earthquake, lie strewn along the river bed at the foot of the Guadalmina River valley. Some boulders act as a dam, creating deep and crystal clear plunge pools, while others take the form of organic diving boards. So, don your swimsuit, leave those with a fear of heights guarding the towels on the grassy verge, and literally dive into the refreshing waters below. Such a simple pleasure, enjoyed by all, at absolutely no cost – a great way to wake up in the morning, wind down after school or work, or simply get a great all-over tan.
Having banished the sedate image of Benahavís with that one giant leap into the abyss, the surprises just keep on coming. Hikers will enjoy the 360-degree opportunities to traipse up or down; golfers will just love the four surrounding courses (including the Monte Mayor Golf Club) and kids can run free at the Amanhavís Hotel's sports club or the nearby Selwo Safari Park.
While Benahavís may lack a couple of the comforts and conveniences of home, they're all pretty close by. The lack of a traditional English or Irish bar is a boon for the town, and besides – the Diana Park commercial centre has plenty, and is just a five minute drive away. For all your other needs – such as bilingual schools, hospitals, supermarkets and clothing stores – Estepona and Marbella are no more than a handy 15-minute drive.
As something of an open-air museum, back garden and dining room rolled into one, Benahavís at dusk and through the evening offers untold pleasures. The absence of a nightclub or loud bar ensures the atmosphere remains camped in the 'contented' sector, where residents and tourists of all ages instead turn their attentions to fine wine, great food and good company. Besides, who needs music when the orchestral clicking of thousands of hillside crickets creates an operatic backdrop to each evening?
Competing with the crickets is the intermittent clinking of cutlery and glass, as hundreds of al fresco diners polish off their meals bathed in candle glow and suffused with a sense of relaxed wellbeing. The laughter of children – energised by their parents' relaxed mood and lax bedtime curfews – adds to the atmosphere, as professional waiters serve, weave, chat and joke with their clientele. It's a classic scene of continental living, and it's one that happens on cue, every balmy evening of the year in Benahavís. Who wouldn't want to be part of it?