Casares area guide: dramatic and imposing
Perched atop a cliff, Casares’ dramatic location makes for some exceptional photo opportunities, but was primarily chosen as the ultimate defence mechanism in ancient times. While easily noticeable from afar, there's no way an army could come upon Casares unnoticed – a panoramic vista of some 40 square kilometres can be enjoyed from the village, while its rear butts up against solid mountainside.
Spectacular, rural and impressively daring in its architectural makeup, Casares attracts plenty of tourists all year round. It is one of the few locations on the Costa del Sol where visitors are unlikely to even notice the weather – the dramatically climbing streets, the winding roads and the cobbled squares draw the attention, while the authentic Spanish lifestyle is culturally pure, and untouched.
Casares is one of the few destinations on the Costa del Sol where its reputation holds true. It really is that majestic; it is most certainly traditional and its location has to be seen to be believed. Approach from the coastal road and you travel through some of the loveliest countryside found anywhere on the coast. Stop the car and take a wander through the hills – that sound you hear is one of silence, interspersed by birdsong or the occasional cricket.
Once you arrive upon Casares, the town actually sits below you. A quick scan of the horizon from one of the telescopic lookout points confirms all you need to know – discovering this magnificent village that sits before you is going to be an awesome experience. The steep and unevenly-paved streets that whisk you to the village's heart take you past plenty of front doors, many left open for cooling purposes, allowing you an intriguing glimpse into what life is like here.
Which quickly begs the question – do you really want to live in a place like Casares? Several expats most certainly do, yet the village is almost too perfect. There is nowhere, absolutely nowhere, that is unsightly, which hints at a village centre maybe somewhat lacking in convenience and choice. Out of town supermarkets, garages, petrol stations, hospitals, etc., might not look pretty, but they are necessities, and they are all amenities that Casares lacks. Beautiful, breathtaking and wonderfully Spanish, yes, but also exceptionally quiet, too.
Despite Casares' universal appeal as a tourist destination, you are going to need a little knowledge of the Spanish language to get by here. There are plenty of lovely restaurants (the ranch-style restaurant that welcomes you as you approach the village by road is a firm favourite and boasts brilliant views) to be found here, yet few waiting staff will understand English, so swot up on your Spanish before you visit.
If you have the legs for it, the entire village can be seen in just a couple of hours. After your initial descent into the centre, which sits at the bottom of an impressively steep valley, the central fountain and its neighbouring cafés and restaurants will certainly be a captivating sight. Once suitably refreshed, you can choose to continue down, to the foot of the cliff on which the village sits, or head up to the peak, where wonderful views and a couple of superb restaurants await. From here, one can scramble across the remains of the former Moorish garrison fort, take a peek into the uncannily cheery graveyard, wander over to the new church and gaze back down into the centre of the village. At practically any time, simply look up to see kestrels, peregrine falcons and black African vultures swooping high above you.
Then there's the views of Gibraltar and Morocco, the excellent hiking and horseback riding opportunities inland, the opulent church near the main Plaza de España and a treasure trove selection of local craft stores, grocers and bakers. For permanent residents, the swathe of new-build apartments located on the approach to the village are the best options, combining space and modern comforts with accessibility, meaning you can be in Estepona in less than 20 minutes.
Casares' nightlife is hardly legendary. This being Spain, there exist a number of bars that stay open until late and attract plenty of locals during the weekend, yet those seeking something a little livelier tend to head to the coast.
Lovers of tapas will most certainly enjoy the range of options available in Casares. Most small bars will have a selection, while the larger restaurants on the edge of the village serve a more varied choice of sit-down meals; a couple also offering delightful al fresco seating where breathtaking views across the Mediterranean and towards North Africa can be enjoyed. Just picture that – an affordable meal, accompanied by fine wine and loved ones, enjoyed atop a cliff overlooking the glistening Mediterranean, the distant yet tangibly close romance of Morocco and the dying ambers of a setting sun as it shoots towards the ocean, calling time on another day in Europe.