Istán area guide: heavenly lakeside views
There's an interesting back story to Istán. Its secluded location 15 kilometres inland from Marbella (sure, being a 20-minute drive from one of the world's most renowned tourist resorts hardly sounds 'secluded'), results from its Moorish origins. After the Christian Reconquista in the 15th century, all Moorish settlements along the coast were destroyed, yet those inland were allowed to remain, with Istán holding out for longer than any others.
As a result, it's an ancient village, and although Istán has lost all but a crumbling minaret tower as a root to its Moorish past, it remains a beguiling place, steeped in history and faintly overwhelming at every step. Then there's the scenery, the lifestyle, the seclusion and the laid-back atmosphere...yep, Istán is like no other village on the Costa del Sol.That's the reputation, and it's also the reality. As soon as you leave behind the traffic and dense development of the Coast to sweep past the Embalsa de la Concepción - the reservoir that provides the Coast's drinking water - out of nowhere, the final bend reveals Istán before it, quietly going about its business away from the madding crowds below. It's unwise to try to drive through Istán; its roads were built for horse and cart centuries ago, and are incredibly steep and tight. There are whitewashed houses lining silent streets all around you, mountain ridges beyond and searing sunshine above; timeless doesn't even begin to cover it, and it's truly a humbling spectacle, stepping directly into living history.
Life in Istán adopts a pace usually associated with a sloth, or at least a fat and contented housecat. There's really no rush here, and the siesta lives on as it should - fully embraced, fully expected and fully appreciated. That's not to say there's nothing to do; in fact, those who are so inclined can probably cram their days here with more activity than they could in London.
Let's start with breakfast, which can be enjoyed on your terrace (with all ingredients sourced from the neighbourly grocer and baker), at a local café or out and about. The background echoes of running water emanate from the pure water springs that course through the village, so fill your bottle before heading off (on foot, naturally) past deserted citrus groves as you descend towards the edge of the reservoir, where only the sound of farm dogs barking and crickets cricketing break the silence. This hike will sure work up an appetite, so head back into the village to enjoy excellent, inexpensive tapas from one of the numerous shaded bodegas that dot the streets.
After your siesta and day at work/leisure, the setting sun will signal part two of 'Life in Istán'. While the heat of the daytime means the locals spend much of their waking hours in second gear, the relative cool that follows dusk is a signal for Istanians to up the pace somewhat. Firstly, as always in Spain, comes the restaurant, and you can take your pick from a fair smattering, including the Troyano, Entresierras, Las Harales and the Rincón de Curro, where you can expect to dine until approximately midnight.
Afterwards, take a table on one of the several courtyard squares that lie all around the village, and enjoy a soothing local sherry, crisp beer or silky glass of wine under the starlit sky. All around you are other locals - some from families that have never lived anywhere but Istán, some recently-arrived expats - enjoying the same simple pleasures: good food, good company, natural warmth, surrounding beauty and the most laid-back atmosphere imaginable.