Málaga area guide: the capital of the Costa de Sol
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Not a lot is known about the city of Málaga among British and Irish holidaymakers and homebuyers. Even expats who have lived in the Province of Málaga for many years tend to ignore the city, preferring instead to get their Andalusian cultural kicks in the farther-flung cities of Seville and Granada. What Málaga gains through its ever-busy airport it loses thanks to its shockingly-bad self-promotion. The classic tourist trail of holidaying Brits heading 'to Málaga' see them land at the airport on the city's outskirts, board a coach or cab, then immediately head to the south and west, to the never ending coastal strip of resorts that forms the neon-lit backbone of the Costa del Sol. All the while, Málaga remains an airport; a stopover destination; a dusty and crowded corner of the Costa del Sol that must be endured rather than enjoyed. Even the city's swift highway system – designed to prevent traffic build up in the centre – does Málaga a disservice, diverting motorists past the wonders that lie within the city and on to Seville, Granada or Almeria.
Yet the local Spaniards do not seem to mind. Their city has remained unspoilt, largely untouched by mass tourism despite its bustling airport and rarely explored by sun-seeking visitors despite the city itself boasting vast stretches of sandy beaches..
The beaches are, however, undeniably Spanish. That is, while the soft sand and the gentle surf of the Mediterranean is exactly the same as that found in Torremolinos, Marbella or Fuengirola, what lies in front of it isn't. There are no British cafes, Irish pubs, swish beach clubs or designer boutiques lining the promenade. Instead, Málaga dots its paseo de marítimo with a number of traditional chiringuitos, tapas bars and seafood restaurants, so if this is your thing – and evidently it is not for the many millions that shun the city every year – then visit, relax and enjoy the beach in the same manner as a local would.
The city's location at the foot of Spain ensures its weather is pleasantly warm all year round. In summer it gets hot, but not so uncomfortably like Seville, while winters are rarely cold. With extremely regular and affordable flights connecting much of northern Europe, it is surprising to see just how untouched Málaga has remained. As a property investment destination, there is a lot of scope here – accessible and affordable, all Málaga perhaps lacks is the kind of new-build properties that are a favourite among your average British homebuyer. Instead, typical accommodation is likely to be found in the form of a normal apartment or flat in the numerous block towers that dot the skyline of the city. There will be few expat communities kicking about in the centre, but for something rather different, Málaga is most certainly worth investigating.
As with many larger Spanish cities, there has been little gentrification in the outskirts of Málaga. Busy and dusty roads circle the city, while pretty much every approach into the centre is characterised by wide, featureless dual carriageways that are dotted with square and uninspired low-rise flats, offices, car showrooms and traditional bodegas.
Yet your arrival by car in Málaga should not serve to detract from the wealth of attractions that lie within. The lengthy promenade throbs with activity throughout the year, attracting Málaga residents of all ages: black-clad older folk amble slowly along, stopping intermittently to enjoy the horizon from the comfort of a shaded bench; fitness fanatics cycle, jog or roller-blade past, weaving in and out of the skateboarding or moped-riding teens that frequent the area in a refreshingly non-threatening manner.
Much of Málaga is also characterised by plenty of gleaming modern buildings, including the newly-opened Málaga Nostrum Centre, the shimmering Convention Centre and the new buildings of the city's excellent university. The bus station connects the city with much of the rest of Spain, while every department store, supermarket, pharmacy and medical facility can be found here – all impressively modern, efficiently-run and easily accessible
In the stunning old town of the city, Málaga's rich history comes to life in the form of a number of intriguing and often spectacular sights. The excellent Picasso Museum is one of the finest of its kind in Europe, while the faded majesty of the Alcazabar and the 14th century Gibralfaro Castle hints at a history defined by battle and glory. The beautifully baroque cathedral is flanked by fragrant gardens, a pretty cafe-lined square and the ever-present horse-drawn carriage stations, where hawk-eyed guides expertly scan the crowd for their next customer.
The atmosphere down in Málaga's tightly woven cobbled streets – particularly during the hot summer months – is intoxicating, almost Bohemian, particularly at the vibrant Plaza de la Constitución, while the boutiques and technology stores that populate the chic Calle Larios offer a glimpse of a city that is finally coming to terms with its unique position at the heart of Spain's tourist trap.
Ferociously loud, eclectic and vibrant, the streets of Málaga are swamped at the weekend with mostly young revellers enjoying plenty of affordable tapas and beers, chatter with friends and frequenting a diverse array of music venues, ranging from earthy live-music gatherings to slick nightclubs and edgy techno houses.
For something a little more refined, the wonderful Cervantes Theatre has a number of internationally acclaimed shows, acts, performers and artists visiting throughout the year, while there are also a couple of large cinemas dotted about town. Top-flight Primera Liga football is back in Málaga for the time being too, with the city's FC Málaga's Rosaleda Stadium playing host to some of the biggest names in world football every other weekend, and making for a great evening out for the entire family.
Dining out in Málaga is an inexpensive pleasure. While the city does what pretty much every Spanish city does – offers beautifully fresh and varied tapas on almost every street corner – Málaga also boasts a fine vegetarian gourmet scene, which is something of a rarity in this most bloodthirsty of countries. There are plenty of vegan and vegetarian-friendly restaurants to choose from, while the city's huge port ensures a fabulous seafood meal can be enjoyed at nearly all restaurants across the city.