Mijas area guide: laid back in the hills
Close to six million tourists visit the Costa del Sol every year, with each and every resort and town from Málaga down to Sotogrande playing host to a rush of temporary inhabitants. And while they all ensure that visitors of all ages are catered for, some are obviously better equipped than others. Mijas displays a highly tangible tourist presence all year round, so much so that the town might often be considered to be little more than a beautiful distraction for holidaymakers heading to larger, more glamorous destinations.
With its donkey-drawn carriages stationed around the main square like some Spanish take on a Blackpool beach, and more gift shops than you could shake a cheap plastic castanet at. Mijas, at first glance appears to be a caricature of the classic whitewashed pueblo. No bad thing by any stretch of the imagination – the town's picture postcard setting and beautiful views certainly make the hairs on the back of your neck stand to attention – but Mijas has much more to it than breathtaking vistas, leather shops and ornamental evidence of authentic Spanish culture. There's something highly real underneath...
Perched this high up between sharply jagged mountains and the plunging plains below, Mijas does well to keep its balance. Not just in a literal sense, but in a cultural sense too. Mijas strikes just the right balance between tourist destination and functionality. Located just inland from Fuengirola, the town is highly accessible and amazingly picturesque, proving particularly popular with older tourists and homebuyers. This is not hard to see why; the laid-back beauty of the town, coupled with the sublime climate and the breathtaking views, creates an atmosphere that is best accompanied with a rich glass of Rioja, a dusky horizon of the same colour and the relaxing orchestral sounds of the local wildlife, calling time on another day.
The steep and winding climb to Mijas occurs over a short distance, yet a lot changes in those two kilometres or so. Most noticeably, the rip and hustle of the coast fades to a distant hum, while the roadside dust gives way to a rockier makeup as you ascend the side of one of the Costa del Sol's numerous peaks. Upon entering Mijas, the blinding whiteness of the alabaster-pale buildings is a striking sight, especially when the searing sun is at its highest. Cafés, bars, restaurants and gift shops scream for your attention, yet it is the authentic beauty of the shrine, which is perched on its own rocky pedestal, that first draws the eye.
Gorgeous views of the coastline can be enjoyed from pretty much every vantage point in town, with the other-worldly silence of the mountainside proving a pretty effective sound barrier. Mijas' location makes it a favoured weekend retreat for many locals from Fuengirola and Marbella, while the short drive to the airport makes it an appealing destination for the expat seeking a peaceful spot in which to purchase that dream home in the sun.
The cultural wealth of Mijas is immediately evident from the very moment you first set foot outside and into the ephemeral sunlight. Ignoring the views, Mijas' beauty lies in its quaintness; its compact size and hilly location posed challenges for architects many centuries ago, but the result is spectacular. Tiny square houses cling to the landscape like fluff on a sweater, creating a backdrop of scattered, whitewashed walls and red tiled roofs that looks great on a postcard.
Around the central square there are a number of lovely cafés that boast excellent 'menu del días' that, while ostensibly aimed at tourists, are great value and attract locals, expats and tourists alike. The old bullring is one of the most captivating in Andalucia; a reasonable entrance fee standing between curious onlookers and the chance to stand in the ring, view the bull pens and buy plenty of overpriced memorabilia.
Equally diverting is the Mijas Wine Museum, with daily wine tastings and the chance to learn all about Mijas's small but growing wine industry. Once suitably imbibed, a trip to the Casa Museo is an enriching experience where one can learn all about the town's Roman roots, agricultural past and recent boom as one of the Costa del Sol's most authentic destinations. The commercial centre of town has a few boutiques, jewellery stores and restaurants, in addition to banks, grocery stores and pharmacies – even though Fuengirola is so close, Mijas still has everything you are going to need.
Handily for the expat, the Town Hall has its own imaginatively-titled 'Foreigners Department', where non-Spanish speakers can request assistance in all manner of matters, most of which are likely to revolve around the endless form-filling that a new resident to the country must undertake. For those looking to settle here with a family, the nearby St. Anthony's College is for international students, while there are also a couple of British schools in Benalmádena and Torremolinos. Once the paperwork has been filled in, the kids packed off to school, the local doctor met and the food shopping completed, Mijas' lovely gardens will beckon you, where you'll be serenaded by the sound of the birds and the occasional busker while enjoying the warming sunshine and the pervading sense of peace atop this majestic mountainside town.With Fuengirola just a short drive away, memorable nights out on the tiles are easy to come by. But wait – La Cala de Mijas has plenty of late night choice to keep most ages happy, so why head to Fuengirola? For the 'Moonlight Visits' at Fuengirola Zoo, of course. Catch a number of creatures in their natural habitat, give the kids a memorable night out and enjoy a celebratory glass of wine once home.
Every summer at Mijas' outdoor theatre, an International Drama Festival is held. While this annual event is a week-long celebration of the performing arts, the late night shows are the best ones to catch, as the starlit night sky creates the perfect stage for the performers.
The sparkling runway of lights that form the backbone of the Costa del Sol twinkle spectacularly below, enticing walkers and strollers out on to Mijas' pristine streets for a night time stroll. The inviting warmth of the many bars and cafés that dot the town proves irresistible, transforming the daytime peace of Mijas into a far more social place in the evening. The absence of a nightclub is explained by the town's easy proximity to Fuengirola, meaning the weekend diaspora of the younger folk leaves Mijas free to be enjoyed by those seeking a more sedate and leisurely evening, where the wine flows as freely as the contented smiles.