Monda area guide: a timeless atmosphere
If you're going to dine out on your reputation, you may as well make it a fanciful one. After all, Michael Winner's been doing it for years, and it never did him any harm... actually, scratch that last bit. A far better example would be the traditional Andalusian village of Monda, which clings desperately and tenuously to the fable that it was here, in 45BC, that the Roman Civil War between the Pompeii upstarts and Julius Caesar's men was settled. There's nary any evidence to support such a claim, save for the similarity between 'Monda' and the 'Battle of Munda', but let's not let the facts (or lack of them) get in the way of a good tale.
Built on top of this reputation – both viscerally and literally – is the Castillo de Monda, an imposing hilltop fortress that affords commanding views of the valley in which the village sits. Today it's a popular hotel and restaurant, and is one of the main reasons why people visit Monda. Some may say the only reason, but not us...
Not us because we know all too well what Monda can offer. As one of the three whitewashed villages that lay scattered inland from Marbella (Istán and Coín being the other two), Monda can often get overlooked or passed by, which is a mistake. Sure, those that appreciate picture postcard-perfect, sugar-cube settlements plonked in the middle of peaceful valleys will indeed love Monda, but its appeal stretches much wider than that.
Monda Castle itself is a nice attraction, but it's the surrounding streets and alleys – cramped, hilly, deserted – that really capture the soul. The sense of community is tangible here; the main tapas bars serve as the social hub, drawing all ages to their patios to drink, chat and enjoy the company of friends and family, while the surrounding vineyards and olive groves lend Monda a timeless atmosphere, one that can be enjoyed on horseback or on foot. For Monda's terrain, while often unforgiving, is undulating and captivating; it's a stunning village with just the right balance of vibrancy, accessibility and seclusion to make it one to look out for if you're thinking of moving to the Costa del Sol.
If you live in the charismatic heart of Monda – all terracotta tiling, wrought iron windows, winding streets and cosy apartments – then get ready to adapt to a certain way of life. Sure the pace is slow, but what Monda lacks in a rush hour it more than makes up for with its idling ways. You can enjoy a delicious breakfast in the sun for a couple of Euros while watching the world go slowly by; take a walk around the entire village in less than an hour, catch up on your siesta and then face the afternoon with renewed relish.
That afternoon could be spent trekking in the Sierra de las Nieves Natural Park, taking the short car journey down to the swish La Cañada shopping mall on the edge of Marbella, or even spent conversing with the locals on one of the many squares that buzz with activity throughout the day, save for the height of the afternoon when the searing sun sends everybody sloping indoors.
You could count the stars in the clear night sky; wander the safe and extremely sound streets people watching; pitch up at your favourite bar for a glass of red wine or a cool beer; visit friends; enjoy a meal at one of the several well-priced restaurants and bodegas, or simply enjoy the peace and quiet of the night air from your terrace or garden.
In short – Monda isn't the place to go if you want to party. You can get to Marbella in less then 20 minutes and 30 Euros by taxi should the mood take you, but Monda is the type of sleepy village that literature often talks about, but usually fails to materialise in reality. Well, here it's real – the distant click of the crickets, the far off barking of a dog, the background hum of chatter and the all-pervading sense of contentment...enjoy it, you'll not find it anywhere else.