Ojén area guide: village life only minutes from Marbella
Reputation and reality: Ojén is one of the largest of the whitewashed villages that lie in the valleys immediately inland from the coast on the Costa del Sol. It is approximately 200 metres above sea level, and so is not the most dramatically situated of all the villages, but then what it lacks in spectacular vistas it more than makes up for with its character.
Fiercely - and understandably - proud of their village, the locals of Ojén nevertheless make all visitors feel warmly welcomed, whether you're a sunburnt tourist rolling in from Torremolinos or a wealthy Madrileño descending for the summer months. Ojén is, also, a bit of a thoroughfare; or at least, it often gets overlooked as motorists scoot on past on their way to the airport.
Despite its size and excellent location just behind Marbella, Ojén has clung on to its 'unspoilt' tag. When compared to the artisan beauty and glowing reputation that has befallen Benahavís, this seems a bit of a shame. But when you think of what Ojén could have become - a barely recognisable commuter overspill town of the coast, or a second home hideaway with all its character stripped away - you quickly understand how great it is that the village has remained largely untouched.
Despite its proximity to the highway, there are deserted cobbled streets, clean squares and appealing fountains to enjoy, so fear not. Ojén's history is rich and extensive, and the village is famous for its production of aguardiente, an anise liqueur that became extremely popular in 19th century New Orleans, and made Ojén relatively wealthy as a result. The village's affluence is apparent in its architecture: there are more large villas and townhouses here than in neighbouring Coín or Monda, and Ojén's unrivalled transport links mean the bustle of the Coast is never too far away.
Drinking fountains spurting refreshing local water dot the numerous squares of Ojén, and are just one of the many welcoming sights the newly arrived local will relish seeing as they find their bearings. In the old part of town, it's the usual maze of tightly knitted alleys and streets, where the winding narrowness soon gives way to the open expanse of the plazas. Locals barely need motorised transport here; everything can be reached on foot, which adds to Ojén's community atmosphere and will no doubt delight expats grown weary of faceless town centres.
Beyond the old part of town lies the hillier, more modern district, which is the location of Ojén's larger properties and, it's worth visiting if only to enjoy the views, which take in the Sierras Alpujata and Blanca. There's excellent hiking all around, but if you fancy filling your day with something more leisurely then the abundant tapas bars will be more than happy to serve you glass after glass of local beer, wine or - if you're ready to handle it - aguardiente.
jén's nightlife, while hardly a patch on the world-renowned dens of dance down on the coast, is surprisingly vibrant and robust; there are even a couple of nightclubs that cater for village teenagers. However, if you don't fancy thumping Euro-electrínica and pop played at ear-splitting volume until the early hours, they're probably best avoided.
There's a good offering of restaurants in the village, serving almost exclusively Andalusian fare. Prices are excellent, as is the service, and there are few simpler pleasures than enjoying a hearty, well-prepared meal with friends and family under the stars. This is what Ojén excels at - nothing fancy, a pleasant atmosphere and just enough choice and liveliness to keep all ages happy and entertained, day or night.