Puerto Banús area guide: glitzy and glamorous
10am, and the dazzling warmth of another Mediterranean summer's day stirs you from your slumber. The white cotton sheets loosely wrapped around you fall away, as you stretch, throw open the blinds and gaze down toward the glistening harbour of Puerto Banús. The relative cool of the morning has enticed all sorts out onto its pristine streets, as Ferraris, Lamborghinis and Bentleys cruise along slowly, turning the heads of the many contented café-goers enjoying their morning coffee beside the still, turquoise waters of the port. The mega-yachts bob gently at their moorings; glowing Scandinavians saunter by, bedecked in the finest nautical gear money can buy; stylish and wealthy Spaniards gaze at the various Louis Vuitton, D&G and Bulgari boutiques, while classy Brits and German ex-pats wear a relaxed smile, a deep tan and appropriate summer clothing as they enjoy another fine morning in their adopted home.
This is life in Puerto Banús. A penthouse or apartment near to the harbour is highly sought-after, offering its residents not just a glimpse into the lifestyles of the rich and famous, but a chance to be part of this very select club, too. Ostensibly modern yet with its roots placed firmly in classic Andalusian architectural styles, Banús is a compact harbour town of dazzling white-washed buildings, pleasant plazas, wide boulevards and sheltered beaches, augmented by chic apartment complexes, plenty of bars, beach clubs and nightclubs, and a number of exceptionally luxurious hotels.
Born in the 1960s, hitting its heyday in the 1980s and now a respected world-leading figure on the world stage, Puerto Banús is successful, well-known and definitely packing an allure and charm, although recently it has struggled to recreate the same buzz it was capable of in the 80s, when the western world's yuppie explosion found its spiritual home there, made real by the ubiquitous box-like supercars and elegant Mercedes, huge mobile phones, dodgy mullets and ill-advised shorts.
For whatever reason – and you can ask the locals who will all say the same – these days Puerto Banús seems to be suffering from an identity crisis. The recession has certainly had an effect, yet many of its traditional inhabitants and visitors are undoubtedly financially immune to the crunches affecting your average Joe. While the reality described above is still very much a daily occurrence, the overall vibrancy of Banús has waned just a little in recent years. Yet this might not necessarily be viewed as a bad thing: Banús' strength lies in its location, its climate, its accessibility and its infrastructure, all of which are still in place and going nowhere. So, even if you cannot afford a supercar or a mega-yacht, cannot dine out in the finest restaurants each evening and are unable to lounge about at the finest beach clubs in Europe each weekend, Banús still has plenty to offer, with some lovely properties that are well-located and more affordable than they’ve been for a decade.
Puerto Banús has a rather unique atmosphere during the daytime. The seasons play their part obviously, so let's start with the winter months first. Between November and March, most of the daytime activity will take place in or around the harbour. The 900 or so moorings for yachts of various sizes are less heavily populated this time of year, while the harbourside walkway (or 'first line') is noticeably quieter, yet still dotted with holidaymakers and locals enjoying the views, the cafés, the bars, the boutiques and the clement weather. Elsewhere, the beaches that shoulder the port are empty, save for a few dog-owners making the most of the space, and maybe a couple of hardy holidaymakers sprawled out on the sand in a vain attempt to get some colouration to their skin before flying home.
Come April, however, and the first shoots of summer emerge, initially in the form of the thousands of Madrileños who descend on the Costa del Sol for their Easter celebrations, soon followed by Northern European holidaymakers enjoying the beautiful May weather. From this moment through to the end of September, Banús is awash with activity. The ethnic cafés, takeaways and restaurants found at the Cristamar shopping centre at the far end of the resort attract Moroccans, Russians, Arabs and the French, while the El Corte Inglés and Marina Banús shopping centre in the heart of Puerto Banús are a huge draw for British and Irish expats and holidaymakers all year round, containing some excellent clothing stores (including a couple of Zaras), WiFi cafés and a cinema that shows one English-language film each week, throughout the year. From June until September, a travelling market pitches up in the main square. While impressive and a distracting way to spend a few hours, the prices are marketed at gullible tourists, so beware.
Along the first line, Puerto Banús really impresses. For a relaxing coffee or glass of wine, Old Joy's Pub is a great option, while the ever-popular Sinatra's Bar will be heaving with punters all day long and throughout the evening too. Exquisite boutiques also populate the first line too, including names such as Hermes, Karen Millen, Dior and Pepe Jeans, while every type of eatery has a home here too, ranging from the surprisingly well-priced Picasso Pizzeria (which is always busy) and Jacks' real American diner to a number of more exclusive seafood restaurants.
Alongside Puerto Banús to the west are a number of beach clubs. Here you have a choice – pay more for the ones aimed at the holidaymakers and wealthier expats, or head to one of the more traditionally Spanish chiringuitos, which are more affordable but offer less opportunity for people-watching. Ocean Club is the big name here, where expensive sun loungers, exorbitant drinks and extravagant 'champagne parties' characterise the summer. Still, it's immensely popular, so it must be doing something right. Plaza Beach is slightly more affordable and accessible, and right beside the port, while Buddha Beach is the young upstart, delivering a nice mixture of exclusivity, style and affordability. For something completely different, you can choose to head for the beach to the east of the harbour, where a more family-friendly atmosphere exists.
The nightlife of Puerto Banús is legendary for good reason. All ages (even those who don't even look old enough to drink) will find something that will suit, whether you seek a romantic meal for two alongside the harbour, some relaxed drinks with friends in a chic wine bar, a last drink with the family before heading home (the open-air Irish Tavern is ideal for this), or a heavy night out involving numerous pubs and clubs. This is the makeup of Puerto Banús at night – for something a little more cultured, one has to head to the neighbouring resorts of Marbella or Estepona. The cinema offers something a little different, as do the occasional tapas bars and bodegas.
Banús is a stag and hen weekend magnet, best observed down the infamous 'second line', which is a narrow, slightly seedy strip of late night bars that attract thousands of revellers every night of the week in the summer. The main draw here is the famous Linekers Bar, while Portside, O'Gradys, Mambo and Seven are mainstays that always pull in the punters. For something slightly different, Terra Blues is a small but wonderfully welcoming bar located up the steps. A slightly edgier, younger crowd can be found here. Dreamers is the main superclub and is located in a modern complex on the outskirts of Banús, while Pangea is located overlooking the harbour and attracts a number of famous faces throughout the year.