Ronda area guide: the best of both worlds
In comparison to the UK with its Big Ben, France with its Eiffel Tower, Italy with its Leaning Tower of Pisa and Germany with its Brandenburg Gate, Spain lacks an instantly recognisable global landmark. Sure, Gaudi's La Sagrada Familia is pretty famous, but your average less-than-well-travelled tourist would be hard-pressed to place it on a map. Then there's always the image of the lobster-tinged, beer-bellied Englishman supping a pint on a Costa Blanca bar stool, bulldog tattoo dripping with sweat as the unappreciated Spanish waiter jots down 'fish and chips' on his notebook - quintessentially Spanish, but hardly the image Spain would like to project.
What they should project, however, is the rich history, eye-popping scenery and grand architecture that are encapsulated by a single glimpse of the iconic Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) in Ronda. Spanning the plunging El Tajo gorge, the fast white waters of the River Guadalevén rush through the valley some 97 metres below, delivering some of the most spectacular views available anywhere in Spain, be it from the top of the bridge or the bottom of the valley - both vistas are awe-inspiring. This is the image that Ronda itself loves to project; strong, robust, historic and beautiful, and it's an image that has set the town in good stead over the past few decades.
But there's more to modern-day Ronda than mere nods to the past. The Sierra de Grazalema that surrounds Ronda plays a huge part in setting the scene. The road journey to Ronda from the coast is a winding, gently escalating joy; the lush, lower terrain is home to some of the region's most exclusive gated developments, nicely juxtaposed by the intermittent presence of goat herders transiting their livestock from one valley to the next. As you get higher, the Mediterranean disappears from view, the kamikaze motorcyclists become fewer and farther between, and the landscape turns almost lunar-like as you approach the heart of the Serranía de Ronda mountains and, eventually, the stunning Sierra de Grazalema.
Once in town, Ronda's location makes it a paradise city for sightseers, but something of a nightmare if you don't have a head for heights. Aside from the cavernous El Tajo gorge that lies below the Puente Nuevo, Ronda has a number of brilliant viewing platforms that deliver dramatic views of the surrounding plains and distant mountains. There are also beautiful plazas, boutique-lined streets and fancy bars; everything, in fact, that you'd likely find along the coast. The difference here is that you have mountains rather than the Mediterranean, and far fewer expats.
There's so much to see and do in Ronda despite its relatively small size. Depending upon where you live, your days can be filled hiking in the hills, shopping in the centre, sipping coffee from the numerous vantage points that overlook the gorge, or simply enjoying any number of leisure activities, such as padel tennis or golf.
For a more culturally enriching experience, the bullring is certainly worth a visit or two - once out of season so you can go behind the scenes in order to understand the history and importance of this much-maligned pastime; and once while there's a show on, if only to slake your curiosity. Beyond the town, there's 52,000 hectares of lush, rugged and varied terrain to traverse in the Sierra de Grazalema, which is the fertile land that rings the city of Ronda and divides the highlands of the southern Andalusian plateau between Sevilla, Ronda and El Bosque. Reaching heights of 1,600 metres above sea level, this wild and undulating terrain is home to very few humans, but plenty of varied flora and fauna, including some of the most impressive examples of birds of prey found anywhere in Europe. Soaring and circling high above the Sierra de Grazalema are Lion Buzzards, Black Vulture, Osprey and Eagles.
In Ronda, you're perhaps just about within reach of Marbella and Puerto Banús if you fancy a night out on the coast. For something a little more traditional, Ronda itself has an excellent selection of restaurants serving all manner of cuisine from around the world. The local delicacies differ from the light, seafood-inspired dishes found along the coast; here, the often hardy winters mean that dishes are heavier, richer and a little stodgier, but well worth experiencing.
Also worth experiencing is a night out in Ronda. With a small expat population, you really have no excuse but to get into the swing of things, Andalusian-style. That means heading out to a bar at around 11pm, enjoying a couple of small beers and maybe a rum and coke, then heading on to a loud and (often) garish club to drink yet more beer and spirits until the early hours. Don't worry - the endless dancing and partying will keep you awake.