Torremolinos area guide: reinvented and thriving
Where to start? Torremolinos' name and reputation certainly precedes it. Second only to perhaps Benidorm in the consciousness of Brits, Torremolinos is a well-known resort that suffers from something of an identity crisis. Not within the town itself – the resort is perfectly at peace with what it offers its visitors and residents – but from farther afield.
The 'Torremolinos' of the media is where the drunkards go; it is where the underclass head to when their giro gets increased; it is where raucous stag and hen parties flock to when lacking in imagination, morals and deep disposable incomes. The 'Torremolinos' we think we know is one of garish hotels, dirty beaches, shabby old bars and a faded grandeur that is forever yearning for the 'glory days' of the early 1980s.
How wrong that image is.
Pace-setters eventually tire and get overtaken, this is indisputable. It is why cross country races have a hare who never wins; it is why early-season league leaders in football soon get caught and left in the dust; and it is why innovative architecture of the past (think 1960s concrete-driven brutalist architecture) quickly looks dated as soon as a fresher way of thinking emerges.
Torremolinos was that pace-setter. In the fledgling days of the package holiday, the resort grew from a quaint and simple fishing village into a thriving holiday resort for the first waves of tourists arriving fresh off the planes at the nearby Málaga airport. The town's immediacy to Málaga, its 7km of beach and its beautiful climate ensured it quickly became something of a favourite among Northern Europeans; less than a three hour flight away for most, Torremolinos offered tangible tropical-ness, almost year-round warmth and an intriguing peek into the Spanish way of life.
By the 1980s, Torremolinos was most certainly one of the liveliest resorts in Europe, but the proliferation of low air fares and more air routes opened up a greater range of choice for the consumer, and Torremolinos soon fell out of favour with the average holidaymaker seeking fun in the sun. So it set about re-inventing itself. Firstly, the infrastructure was modernised, followed soon by bigger and better hotels and a greater choice of attractions. Soon, Torremolinos became a popular resort and has, in recent years, augmented itself further, adding family-friendly attractions, traditional charm and a wider choice of commercial and investment opportunities than before.
Then there's the excellent location. Just a couple of kilometres from Málaga airport, Torremolinos is extremely accessible, and boasts arguably the coast's finest stretch of beach and most certainly one of the busiest and most intriguing promenades in the region.
The resort's La Carihuela district is built around the old fishing village and is a wonderfully charming section of town. Here lies some of the very best fish and seafood restaurants you are likely to find anywhere along the coast, the produce freshly caught and grilled every morning. Neat, fragrant and impossibly pretty, La Carihuela acts as Torremolinos' back garden, such is its idyllic nature.
The stretch of beach that runs the entire length of the resort is dotted with thousands of sun loungers and parasols, which in turn are invariably swamped by sunbathers of all shapes and sizes during the summer. Get there early for a good spot; late arrivals can still lay a towel on the hot sand, but prepare to fend off waves of 'Lucky Lucky Men' touting their wares as you catch some rays or frolic in the sea.
Along the promenade on the beach side are a number of restaurants, all invariably Spanish in character and cuisine, while the street-side promenade is home to a more international offering of cafés, restaurants, bars and shops. At the central-eastern end of the beach (nearer to Málaga) is a winding route up to the town centre, along which hundreds of independent stall traders can be found, selling everything from leather bags and purses to candy floss and t-shirts.
Once in the town centre, the assault on your wallet continues as street upon shop-fronted street stretches out before you, buzzing with activity day and night. Visitors of all ages can simply enjoy the dazzling sights, sounds and smells of this spectacle, although the power of the purchase makes for a more satisfying experience as you pound the pavement. Between the stores and gift shops sit plenty more bars and restaurants, most boasting an open-front where al fresco cafe-sipping and people-watching can be enjoyed at your leisure.
While a great place to simply stroll around, Torremolinos also boasts a number of excellent attractions. The Torremolinos Aquapark boasts the tallest waterslide in Europe and is impressively well-designed. Next to here is the Crocodile Park, while weekly magic shows can be enjoyed at the Magic Palace (home to Oscar, Renzo and Mara) just a few hundred metres down the road. Just outside of town is the Plaza Mayor commercial centre, which is home to an outlet village, a large Leroy Merlin store and a newly-opened IKEA – perfect for furnishing that newly-bought home in the sun.
Surprisingly, Torremolinos' previously legendary nightlife has now been surped by almost all of its major competitors to the west. Benalmádena's close proximity, 24-hour square and Puerto Marítimo combine to draw most late-night revellers away from Torremolinos, leaving behind...a pleasantly peaceful atmosphere, actually.
Most bars in the centre will stay open until 1am, with some pushing on through a bit later, so if you simply seek a quiet drink with friends then Torremolinos is ideal. There are some larger clubs, but they're mostly quite Spanish in makeup and clientele; which is fine, but Brits seeking the hedonism of old will mostly be disappointed, although a short taxi ride to Benalmádena will soon raise spirits.
If you seek something a little more substantial from your evenings, then Torremolinos will not disappoint you. The Magic Palace has evening shows, La Carihuela has some lovely tapas bars, there are salsa evenings, cinemas, theatres and all manner of social gatherings for the expat community to enjoy - Torremolinos has been around long enough to know how to keep all ages entertained at any hour of the day, so you most definitely will NOT be disappointed.